Safari Day 7: Arusha

After the Maasai village, we headed back to Arusha. I couldn’t get very good pictures of the town because we were driving, but these are my best attempts:

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On our last full day in Tanzania, we did a walking safari and canoeing in Arusha National Park. This was something we added onto our traditional itinerary, and it ended up being a great day: we’d been in the car all week, so it was nice to get out of the jeep for once and stretch our legs. It’s also a really different experience to walk through a park instead of driving: much quieter, of course, and you can immerse yourself in the environment instead of barreling through. This enabled us to get close to a herd of cape buffalo, and also a mother giraffe and two babies. Also, we really liked our guide Rahima – a female park ranger with an interesting story of trying to make it in a very male-dominated occupation and society as a whole.

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Safari Day 6: Lake Manyara and Esilalei Village

The feature of Lake Manyara National Park for me was the baboons. I wouldn’t have gone into this trip looking forward to baboons necessarily, but when they’re in big family groups in the jungle, they have tons of personality – really playful and very human-like, especially the constantly squabbling babies. Lake Manyara also featured more elephants very destructively nomming on the trees, monitor lizards, an almost black giraffe, and some new antelope species.

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In the afternoon we visited the Maasai village Esilalei en route back to Arusha. Our safari company has a relationship with this particular village and uses some of the tour proceeds to benefit the village school–though, in our opinion, not enough – the currently one-room school house (there’s a second building under construction) houses 120 students and is infested with bats; the whole place reeks of bat shit and there’s a serious lack of supplies, despite the funds and donations from the company. This was a weird and sort of uncomfortable experience for both of us; it felt like cultural voyeurism / exoticization to a degree, but on the flip side vaguely extortionist at the same time. It was interesting to see the village life and partake in their traditional welcoming dance, but we were both sort of relieved to leave.

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Safari Day 5: Serengeti & Oldupai

Despite being in Tanzania, we actually spent very little time in the Serengeti (H has a secret conspiracy theory about why this might be: essentially that our guide 1) effed up, and 2) prefers off-roading and scaring the animals in Ndutu). Just a quick drive through on our way out of the Ngorongoro area and back toward Lake Manyara and eventually Arusha. Honestly, though, I don’t feel like we really missed out; we’d already had Tarangire, which was incredible as far as the wildlife, and we’d had the amazing scenery of Ngorongoro and the off-roading experience in Ndutu, so I’d already taken tons of pictures of wildebeest and zebra herds. (Amazing how quickly you become blase about dozens of beautiful animals roaming free.) I snapped a few pictures of interesting birds and lizards, but we were driving too fast for a lot of the rest of it, which was the same as what we’d seen before anyway. So I’m not regretful, and at least I can still technically say that I went to the Serengeti.

After the Serengeti, we went to Oldupai Gorge (it is often written as Olduvai, but this is because the original Europeans misunderstood and misspelled the Maasai name for the place), which is the place where the oldest human ancestor remains have been found and has therefore been dubbed the “birthplace of modern man.” There’s a very small museum there with a pointless accompanying lecturer, since everything the lecturer says is also written, also in English, in the museum, but I enjoyed it anyway (the site overall, not the pointless lecturer). The gorge itself was very striking in a wild, remote kind of way, and it was pretty cool to stand there and think about our ancestors leaving footprints in volcanic ash millions of years ago. You can read more about it here.

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Safari Days 3 & 4: Ndutu

On Day 3 I think all we really did was drive from Ngorongoro to Ndutu, get a flat tire in the mud, end up stuck in the rain for a while, and try to figure out how to get through the flooded marsh to reach our campsite. It was like the Oregon Trail computer game: You have reached the Small Marsh. Do you want to: a) Ford the river. b) Hire an Indian guide. c) Caulk the wagon and float it across.

You have lost: 1 wagon axle, 12 bullets, 57 pounds of meat, and the youngest child drowned, but she had dysentery anyway, so it was only a matter of time.

You have lost: 1 wagon axle, 12 bullets, 57 pounds of meat, and the youngest child drowned, but she had dysentery anyway, so it was only a matter of time.

Just kidding. Answer: Make sure a Tanzanian is driving and just plow on through.

On Day 4 we actually explored Ndutu, which is part of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area bordering the Serengeti. You can off-road here, meaning that while it can take a long time to find any animals, once you do you can get really close to them, which our driver enjoyed just a little too much at times. (This is where the cheetah pictures that I’ve posted elsewhere and the lion pictures that I will post are from.) The landscape pictures are during the flat tire episode, while we were standing out on the savannah waiting, and most of the animals are from Day 4.

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Safari Day 2: Ngorongoro Crater

This was my favorite place from the trip.

The jagged mountains like hands cupping pistachio green fields within and the huge clouds in the endless sky overhead were such a perfect backdrop that they made the animals look nearly fake, they were so striking (really, is there anything more striking than a zebra?), often so close, and yet placid at the same time. The whole atmosphere was sort of other-worldly.

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How Tanzania is kind of Bulgarian

Or: How one bad experience with Ethiopian Air, Bole International, and Addis Ababa turns you into a paranoid maniac after just one day. And no sleep.

Since I used frequent flyer miles to purchase my flights to and from Tanzania, I was a little limited in options. The reason why my bag was only checked through to Dar es Salaam was because that was the best option I had when booking my itinerary with miles. I did a little searching and found that I could fly from Dar to Kilimanjaro for about $100 using Fly540, a budget airline. I was a little nervous about this, given the problems we had getting to Istanbul for our Cairo flight two years ago, but there was an 8-hour gap between my arrival in and departure from Dar, so I’d figured that would be enough time to cover delays and sort out any issues.

This was before my experiences with Ethiopian Air, naturally. After that, I was prepared for the worst.
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